■77 



INSTRUCTION BOOK, 

giViNg full i|\IforiviATio|vJ for UsiNg 

Tlie Self-iiijiistii Toiler System 




OF' 

garme:nt cutting. 

ROCHKSTE^R, N. V. 



Sunday Tr'bune Job Print, Cor. Broad and John SU., Utica, N. Y 



INSTRUCTION BOOK, 

gin/iMg full information for UsiNg 

Tlie Jelf-Mustii Toilor Sislem, 



/ 



1 



1^1 




OF 



i APR 23 1B91 ' ].' 

V ■ c t ^^ c W 



G^RMKNT CUTTING. 

/ 

ROCI II^STEZR, N. V. 

ICopyright.] 

Entered According to act of Congress in The yetr 1891, March 30tb/inCthe office of the 

Librarian of Congress* at \A a-hir.etf n. All rights reserveJ. Any infringra^ut on th^s bock or 

any part will be puniijht d to the full extent ( f the law. J s j""- «. or 



Co 



Z-' 



'<^;^ 




IMPORTANT, 



We wish to call attention to a few errors : 

On page 5, sec. 14. 8| should read 8f. 

Pa2[e 7, 15 inch neck should read 12 inch. 

Page 16, sec. 6, last line, left should read right and right should 
read left. 

Page 25, last line, underarm dot should read underarm dart. 

Page 30, fourth line, should read, and run outside line 8, h inch. 




.§. ^pG^aee. •$• 



N this, our fourth issue, we wish to say to our old patrons that wc 
have in this book the most complete instruction book ever issued, 
giving all the new shapes and most explicit directions for drafting 
also we have made some changes which makes the work much more 
simple, and of course an improvement. We wish to call your atten- 
tion to some of them. We make dot B at the breast measure, 
leaving out dots | inch each side of K, also making dot L If 
inch below dot K, leaving out line 9 and putting whole of space from 
dot O to line 6 in the two fi-ont darts, which simplifies die work 
very much, and with our new square we feel confident that the Self- 
adjusting is the most complete system of cutting now before the 
public. It is only a matter of a perfect measure and a correct draft 
to get a most perfect fitting, easy feeling, and at the same time giv- 
ing the most elegant figure, and it can be accomplished in less time 
than with any other system in use. 

Now, if all this can be secured by the use of the self-adjusting 
system, does it not deserve some little attention I Will it not pay you 
to thoroughly learn the system ? Dressmaking is no longer a drudge 
but an art, and if you wish to be an artist you must keep abreast of 
your business, with this fact in view, that any business worth doing 
at all is worth your close, undivided attention in order to make a 
success. 

. With our new book any lady of ordinary intelligence can learn 
the system. 




Fig. 1. 

BACK OF CLOSE-FITTING BASQUE. 

?ea§cai®ei, M^ed foF SpiGtl ©ei)§oi^. 

12 inch Neck. 

16 inch Length Back. 

G inch Shoulder. 
25 inch Around Waist. 
8f inch Side Seam. 

13 inch Width Back. 

Section 1. Place square on papar I inch from edge, short arm 
from you and near top of paper. 

Sec. 2. Draw line 1 at longar.n of squ iie. 



Sec. 3. Draw line 2 at short arm of square. 

Sec. 4. Make dot A on line 2 at the neck measure, usincr back 
neck measure scale on short arm of square 12 inches in this 
measure. 

Sec. 5. Make dot B | inch from corner of square on 
line 1. 

Sec. 6. Make C IG inches from dot B on line 1. 

Sec. 7. Place X corner of square on line 1 and 2, (move the 
square up so inside of long arm is outside of line 1 and the metal 
curve on line 2). 

Sec. 8. Make dot D at the shoulder measure, on line 1, using 
back shoulder measure on inside ol long arm of square. 6 
inches in this measure. 

Sec 9. Place corner of square at dot D, long arm on line 1 and 
draw line 3 at short arm of square. 

Sec. 10. Place corner of square at dot C, short arm on line 1, 
long arm to your right. 

Sec. 11. Make dot F at the waist measure, 25, using back 
waist measure scale on long arm of square. 

Sec. 12. Draw line 4, (the back waist line), from dot C to dot F. 

Sec. 13. Make dot G I inch from dot C on line 4, and 
make dot H 1^ inches from dot C, and make dot I | 
inch from dot H. Dot H may be varied according to taste, 
as it does not change the fit. 

Sec. 14. Without moving square make dot J 8;} inches from 
dot C on line 1. This is length of side seam. ^ 

Sec. 15. Place corner square at dot J, long arm on line 1, and 
draw line 5 at short arm of square, and make dot K G| inches 
from dot J. This is one-half width ot back measure. 

Sec 16. Draw line 6 from dot A to dot B with curved end of 
square. 



6 

Sec. 17. Place curve end of square on dot A, short arm towards 
you, and draw a curve line 6 inches long to line 3, use the 
measure on inside of curved end of square, this is back shoulder, 
line 7 and dot E. 

Sec. 18. Draw line 8 from dot E to dot K with curved end of 
square, the end li inch above dot E, short arm toward 
you. 

Sec. 19. Make dot L IJ inch above dot K, on line 8, as 
the location of dot L does not alter the fit, it may be located 
according to taste. 

Sec. 20. Place curve end of square at dot K, inside of long arm 
at dot F, short arm towards you, and draw line 9 from K to F. 

Sec. 21. Place curve end of square at dot L, inside of long arm 
at dot C, short arm towards you. 

Sec. 22, Draw line from dot L to line 5 and stop. Now move 
end of square down to end of line just drawn, and place inside of 
long arm at dot H, and linish line 10 from L to H. 

Sec. 2:. Draw line 11 from dot I, to intersect wi^h line 10 3^ 
inches above dot I. 

Sec. 24. Draw straight line from dot G to dot J, line 12. 

Sec. 25. Place short arm of square on line 1, long arm at your 
right, move corner of square 3 inches below dot C, short arm 
still on line 1. 

Sec. 26. Make dot M at corner of square. Make dot N as far 

from M as H is from G at the waist line. And make dot O 

h inch from dot N. And make dot P 1 inch bej'-ond waist 
measure, as seen in back waist scale. 

Sec. 27. Draw straight line from dot G through dot M six 
inches. This is line 13. 

Sec. 28. Draw line 14 straight from dot H through dot six 
inches. 

Sec. 29. Draw line 15 straight from dot I through dot N six 
inches. 



Sec. 30. Place curbed end of square at dot F, inside of lon^ 
arm at dot ?, short arm from you, and draw line 10 from F through 
dot P inches. After makino; draft of hack, measure from line 2 
to line 5. Also measure line 9 from K to F, and set the measure 
down on margin of paper for use in makini^' front draft. 




Fio-. 2. 

FltONT FOR TIGHT- FITTING B.VhQUE. 

37 inch Bu.st. 

19 inch Front. Bust measme • - 37 inches- 

13 inch Height Dart. Width Back - - 13 inches. 

1-i inch Arm Eye. Subtracted fr(»iii Bust, leaves — 

15 inch Neck Breast measure' - - 24 inches. 

(3 inch Shoulder. 
45 inch Hip Measure. 



8 

Section 1. Draw lino 1 twenty font' inches ]ung,''one inch from 
ed»e of paper. 

Sec. 2, Place short arm on liin' 1, lono- arm near top of paper, 
and draw line 2 at loiifr arm; make dot A on lirje 2 at the neck 
measure, (12). Use fi-ont neck measure r>n long arm of square. 

Sec. 3. Make dot B on line 2 at the breast measui'e, (24), using 
Tsreast measure on long arm of square. (The breast measure 
is obtained b^" subtracting width of back from bust measure).. 

Sec. 4. Make dot C on line 1, at the shoulder measure, using 
front shoulder measure on short arm of square. If inches fiom 
CO jrieroi sqiiaie inthis measure. 

Sec. 5. Make dot D on line 1, at the neck measure, (12), using 
height of neck on short arm of square 3i inches from corner 
•of square. 

Sec. 6, Place corner of square at dot (J, short arm on line 1, 
«,nd draw line 3 at long arm of square 10 inches. 

Sec. 7. Draw line 4 from A to D, curve for front neck. Place 
Jetter D on point of metal curve at dot D on line 1, u|»per {)art of 
Tjurve at dot A on line 2, long arm towards you. 

Sec. 8. Place curve end of square at dot A short arm down, 
and long arm across line 3; and make dot E on line 8 of inches 
from dot A, using measures on inside of long arm of square; 
draw curve line from dot A to dot E. Make front shoulder from 
:| to ^ inch shorter than back shoulder. 

Sec. 9. Place corner of square at dot B, short arm on line 2, 
long arm down ; draw line G length of long arm of square. 

Sec. 10. Make dot G on line G as far from dot B at corner of 
square as line 5 is below line 2 in the back. Refer to Back Draft- 
ing. 

Sec. 11. Measure line Oof liack from K to F, and make dot H 
the same distance below dot G on line G. 

Sec. 12. Measure uj) fiom dot H toward <iot G, the length of 
side seam, 8 f inches: and make dot I near dot G. 



Sec. 18. Place corner of square at dot I, long arm on line 6> 
short arm toward you. 

Sec. 1-i. Make dot J 2h inches from dot I, (or one-fourth 
the arm eye measure whatever it may be), and draw line 7 from 
I to J. 

Sec. 15. Make dot K | of an inch to the right of dot J. 

Sec. 16. Place corner of square at dot K, short arm on line 7, 
and make dot L 1| inches helow dot K at long arm of square. 

Sec. 17. Place letter J on point of metal curve at dot J on 
line 7, and upper end of curve at dot E, and draw line 8 from E to 
J; move curve to the right and continue line 8 to dot G about 
I inch below line 7. 

Sec, 18. Place corner of square at dot A on line 2, long arm 
downward ; move corner of square above dot A 1^ inches, or the 
length of line 6 back neck line of back draft. 

Sec. 19. Move lower end of long arm over on line 1 without 
moving corner from its place, and make dot M on line 1 at 19 
inches, or the length of front whatever it may be. 

Sec. 20. Without moving square make dot N at 13 inches 
at long arm of square for height of dart. 

Sec. 21. Draw line 9 from dot N to dot L. This line regulates 
the height of the darts. 

Sec. 22. Place corner of square at dot M, short arm on line 1, 
.and draw front waist line from dot M to line 6 ; this is line 10. 



10 




Fig. 3. 

12 inch Neck. 

19 inch Length Front. 

13 inch Height Dare. 
8f inch Side Seam. 

Distance from line 2 to line 5 Ih inclies, length of line 9, 9^' 
inches. 

Sec. 23. Measure liiK^ 4, Viack waist line, from C to F and take 
off I inch, it will leave 3.^ inches in this measure; the J inch 
taken off is the i from C to G, and the \ from H to I. 

Sec. 24. Place long arm of square on line 10, short arm down. 

Sec. 25. Draw the coinei of square towards 3'ou 3.^ inches out- 
ride of dot M, long arm on line 10. 

Sec. 26. Make dot O at the waist measure on line 10, using; 
breast scale on lon^: arm, 25 in this measure. 



11 

Sec. 27. The space on square outside of line 1 is what you 
have in the back, that with the space from dot M to dot should 
make one-half of your waist measure, 12| inches, if you have 
done the work correct. 

Sec. 28. Measure the space faora dot to line 6. That must 
be taken up in darts. 

Sec. 29. The space from dot to line 6 is 3 iuches ; that is 
taken np in the two front darts 1^ inches in each dart. 

Sec. 30. Place loner arm on line 10, corner at dot M, and make 
dot P 1^ inchs from dot M, and make dot Q Ih inches from dot P. 

Sec. 31. And make a dot in center between P and Q, make dot 
E. f of an inch from Q. 

Sec. 32. Make dot S li inches from dot R, make a dot in cen- 
ter between R and S. 

Sec. 83. Place corner of square at center dot of back dart, 
short arm on line 10, long arm down. 

Sec. 34. And draw a line from center dot, C inches at long 
arm of square. This is line 11. 

Sec. 35. Move the corner of square up to line 9, long arm along 
line 11, and make dot T on line 9 at corner of square. 

Sec. 36. Place corner of .square at center dot of front dart, 
short arm on line 10, long arm downward, and draw Hue 12 6 
inches at long arm of square. 

Sec. 37. Place long arm on line 1, short arm from you ; now 
move square up until the short arm touching dot T on line 9. 

Sec. 38. Draw the corner of square | inch outside line 
1, and made dot V from this dot run a straight line up to within 
1| inch of dot D, on line 1. 

Sec. 39. Turn square over, place the figure.^ 18 on the square at 
dot V, short arm to you, and draw curve line lo within 1 inch of 
dot M. 

Sec. 40. Make dot U on line 9, in center between dot V and 
dot T for point of front dart. 



12 

Sec. 41. Place curve end of square at dot U short arm to you, 
inside of long arm at dot P and draw curved line from U to P. 

Sec. 42. Place curved end jf square at dot T, short arm to you, 
inside of lonof arm at dot R and draw curved line to dot R. 

Sec. 43. Turn square over, short arm from you, and draw 
curved line from dot T to dot S. 

Sec. 44. Place cui-ved eml of square at dot U, inside long arm 
at dot Q, short arm from you, and draw curved line from dot U to 
dot Q. 

Sec, 45. Make a dot one-half inch each side of lower end of lines 
11 and 12. The dot at the right of lower end of line 11 is dot DD. 

Sec. 46. Now draw a straight line from dots P, Q, R and S, to dots 
at lower end of lines 11 and 12, for lower end of darts. These lines 
may be curved in for lull forms, or the dots may be made near to 
lines 11 and 12. 

Sec. 47. Place curved r.nd of square at dot S, inside of long 
arm at dot H, short arm up. 

Sec. 48. Draw a curved line frcmi dot S through dot H lA 
inches outside line 6, and make dot X. 

Sec. 49. Make a dot in center between dot S and dot X on line 
just drawn, and make dot'2/| of an inch to the right of dot just 
made, and make dot Z | of "an inch to the left. 

Sec. .50. Place curved end of square at dot K. inside of long 
arm at dot Z, short arm to you, and draw curve line to dot Z, line 13- 

Sec. 51. Draw straight line from dot K to dot Y. This is line 14. 

Sec. 52. Draw straight line from dot G to dot X, line 15. Al- 
ways see that the line from G to X is same length as from dot G to 
dot H. If necessary, draw new vvaist line from dot Y. 

Sec. 53. Place long arm on line 6, short arm from you. Move 
corner of .square down below dot H 4 inches; make dot cc 
3 inches from corner of square at short arm. 

Sec. 54. Place curved end of square at dot X, inside of long 
arm at dot cc, short arm from you; and draw hip line from X to 
cc, 6 inches. 



13 

Sec. 55. Measure from dot dd to dot cc, and make a dot in 
center between dots cc and dd, and make dot aa one inch to left, 
and dots bb 1 inch to the right. 

Sec, 56. Place curved end of square at dot Z, inside of long 
arm at dots bb, short arm from you, and draw line from Z to bb. 

Sec. 57. Place curve end of square at dot^Y, inside of long arm 
at dot aa, short arm to you and draw line from dot Y to dots aa. 
All of the lines may be carried down as long as desired. 




COAT SLEEVE. 

Sec. 1. Place square on )Da|)ef <tiie and one-half inch from edge 
of paper, short arm from you, and near top of paper, and draw line 
1 1|- inches longer than measure taken for length of arm, and 
make dot I 

Sec. 2. Draw line 2 from upper end of line 1 at short arm of 
square, near top of paper. Dots A, B and C are made before mov- 
ing square. 



14 

Sec. 3. Make dot A Ih inches from corner of square on line 1, 

Sec. 4. Make clot B \ of arm eye measure, from corner of 
square one line 1. 8i inches in this measure. 

Sec. .'). Make clot C the lenirth to elbi>\v from corner of square. 
13 inches in this measure. 

Sec. 6. Move corner' of square to ilot A, long arm on line 1, and 
draw line 3 at short arm of square. 

Sec. 7. Make dot D on line 3 Ih inches less than half the 
measure around the arm ih inches in this measure. 

Sec. 8. Make dot E Ih inches more than half the measure 
around the arm. 7-k inches in this measure. 

Sec. 9. Place corner of square at dot C, long arm on line 1, and 
draw line 4 at short arm of square. 

Sec. 10. Make dot F 1^ inches from dot C 

Sec. 11. Move c<jrner of square to dot F, and make dot G 1-^ 
inch less than half of elbow measure from dot F. 3-^ inches 
in this measure. 

Sec. 12. Make (lot H i-i- inches more than half elbow meas- 
ure from dot F. 6^ inches in this measure. 

Sec. 13. Place corner of square at dot I, long arm on line 1 , 
and draw line 5 at .short arm of scj[uare. 

Sec. 14. Draw square towards you | of an inch, short arm 
still on line 5, and make dot J 2 ^ inches above the corner of 
square at long aim. 

Sec. 15. Place corner of square at dot J, short arm on line 5, and 
make dot K oa line 5, 1^ inches more than half the cufF measure 
from dot J. 5-^ inches in this measure. 

Sec. 16. Without moving square draw line G from dot J to dot 
K, and make dot L on line 6 l^ inches less than half the cuff 
measure from dot J. 

Sec. 17. Place curved end of square at dot F inside of square 
at dot J, short arm from you, and draw line 7 from dot F to dot J. 



15 

Sec. 18. Place curved end of square at dot G, inside of long 
arm at dot L, and draw line 8 from G to L, short arm from you. 

Place curved end ( f square at dot H inside of square at dot K, 
and draw lower end of line 9 from H to K, short aim from you. 

Sec. 19. Draw straight line from dot E to dot H. 

Sec. 20. Place curved end of square at dot D inside of long 
arm at dot G, short arm to you, and draw curved line from dot D 
to G. 

Sec. 21. Place curve end of square at dot F inside of long arm 
at dot Bj short arm from you, draw line from F. to B, 

Sec. 22. Make a dot ^ inch outside of dot B; place curved 
end of square at this dot, short arm from you and downward, 
and draw line from dot to join line 7 3 inches from dot outside of 
B. This line is used for under part of sleeve. 

Sec. 23, Place the letter W on inside of short arm of square at 
dot D on line 3, and mettle curve at dot B, and draw line 10 from 
dot D through dot B to dot outside of line 1.' 

Sec. 24. Make dot W on line 2 half the distance from A to E. 
3f inches in this measure from line 1. 

Sec. 26, Place the star on long arm of square over dot W and 
draw line from dot B to dot W. Move the square to your right so 
the letter W will be over dot W. Continue line 11 to dot E. 



16 




Double Side Body. 

Make the di'aft regular. Draft darts. Draw new waist line from 
dot S throuorh dot H to dot X, diaw line from X to dot Y. Dot Y 
is used where dot cc is in the single .side body. Make dot X 2 
inches from dot H. 

Sec. 3. Place corner of square at dot J, short arm on line 7, long 
arm downward, and draw line from dot J to the new waist line, and 
make dot aa, line 13. 

Sec. 4. Make dot bb 1 inch to the left of dot aa, and draw 
curve line 14 from dot J to dot bb, short arm to you. 

Sec. 5. Make dot Z in center between dot J and dot I. 

Sec. 6. Make a doi in center between dot aa and dot X, and 
make dot cc ^ inch to the left, and dot ee h inch to the.rigbt. 

Sec. 7. Draw straight lines 15 and 10 from Z to dot C C and 
EE. 

Sec. 8. Measure from dots dd to dot Y, and make a dot ^ of 
the distance, from dots dd. and make tint H' \ inch to the left, and 
dot gg I inch to the right. 



17 

Sec. 9. Measure from center dot between ft' and gg to dot 
Y, and make a dot in center, and make dot hh | inch to the right 
and dot ii |- inch to the leit. 

Sec. 10. Place curved end of" square at dot B B and continue 
line 14 to dot G G, short arm from you. 

Sec. 11. Place curved end end of square at dot A A, short arm 
to you, and continue line 13 to dot F F. 

Sec 12. Place curved end of square at dot E E, short arm from 
you, and continue line 15 to dot H H. 

Sec. 13. Place curved end of square at dot C C, short arm to 
you, and continue line 16 to dot I I. 

Sec. 1. For catting bias dart, make a regular draft complete, 
make dot S S 1^ inches from dot S, make dot D D D 1| inches to 
the right of D D. 

Sec. 2 Draw straight line from dot T to dot S S, and from dot 
S S to dot D D D. Trace this line. 

Sec. 3 Make Z Z 1| inches from dot Z, make dot B B B 1| 
inches to the light of dot B B, then draw curve same as dotted line 
from K through Z Z to B B B. Trace this line instead line 13. 



Iip§ti®(dGtioni) foF §akirpg fI?ea§caFe§. 



Take Neck Measure: Tight inside of collar This measure reo-u- 
lates size of diess at back. If you h'Bve a looseness at back and 
shoulder, you have taken the neck measui'e to large. 

Length of Back: Place a line on bone at back of neck and take 
down as long as dress could be worn. 

Shoulder Measure: Place line close up to neck with your thumb 
on end of line, the hand around the neck and measure to point of 
shoulder about one-inch longer than the dress should be whea 
finished. 

Waist Measure: Very tight aiound small part of waist. 



18 

Width of Back: Across the fullest part of back from side seam 
to side seam. 

Bust Measure: Over fullest part of bus^. raised slit^htly in tlie 
back. A'close measure, draw line close under the arm. 

Side Seam: Place thumb on line close up under the arm the 
hand on right shoulder forming square of hand and thumb, and 
measure down to hip bone, the line a little back of straight down 

Front Measure: From bone in back of neck over right shoulder 
to waist line in front. Care should be used in taking this measure. 
Put a })in at the length of front, while the line is in position notice 
height of dart. It should be just below fullest part of bust. 

Arm Eye: Around arm over point of shoulder; a close measure. 

Hip Measure: Loose measure over largest part of hip. 

Length of Arm: Arm raised bent in form of square. Measure 
from center of back around elbow to bone of wrist. Subtract 
widbh of back from whole measure and you have correct measure _ 
Measure back draft from center to about where dot L is made. 

Length from Shoulder to Elbow: Place end of line as for taking 
shoulder measure, and run line over point of shoulder to point of 
elbow. Subtract length of shoulder from whole measure. 

Around Arm Measure: Place line close to body and measure 
straight around arm as you wish sleeve. 

Around Elbow: Place line around arm over point of elbow with 
arm beat clo,se. 

Cuff: Measure around hand close. 

Test Breast: Measare across breast about two inches below neck 
a."* wide as you M'ish the dress. 

Ballance: Measure up from pin at length of front to length de- 
sired at neck. 

The hip, test breast and ballance measures are test measures. 

After Draft is made: Measure the draft about four inches below 
waist, fronj line 13 to 14 and 15 to 16 in back. Also the distance 
from line 1 to dots BB, and from dots AA to dots CC, leaving out 



19 

the lower end of darts. That should make one half ot hip measure, 
if not some of the lines must be moved t® make hip measure, and 
you must use your judgment ; if large hip give more opening at hip 
if lull front, take up less at lower part ot darts by making dots near 
lines 11 and 12. 

For Test Breast: Measure from line 1 to line 8, and it should be 
one-half of test breast measure ; if not make line 8 from E to J a 
little straighter. 

Balance Measure: Measure up from dot M, on line 1, towards 
dot D, and make a new dot. If there is a difference draw a new 
line 4, and lower the shoulder line the same distance below dot A. 



20 






TIUAL MEASURES. 


s 


ncli neck. 


12 


nch length back. 


o 


neb Ipncrth shoulder. 


lOh 


nch width back. 


27 


nch bust. 


10 


nch arm size 


Cl 


uch side .seam. 



Sec. 1. Make lines 1, 2, 8, 4, 5, (3, 7, 8, !) ani 10 same as Fig. I, 
Place corner of square at dot C, short arm on line 1, make 
dot F at bust measure, usina back waist measure, scale 27 in this 
measure, ami draw line 4, back waist line, from C to F. 

Sec. 2. Place curved end of square 2 inches above dot F on line 
9, inside of square touching dot F, and continue line 9 from F, as 
long as desireti. 

Sec. 3. Make dot G Ik inch from dot C, (this maybe varied 
according to taste. 

Sec. 4 Place square in position to get dots M, N, O and P, and 
make dot N f inch from corner square, make dot Ijf inches from 
dot N, make dot P | inch beyond bust oieasure, 27 in this measure. 

Seo. 6. Draw straight lines from G through dot N and O, make 
dot J on line 8 according to taste; and draw line 10 to dot G, the 
back may be cut a French back if desired, by leaving dots G, N and 
0, and connec'ing lines out, or line 10 may be run to center of 
shoulder if desired. 



21 




FRONT FOR CHILD. 

Sec. 1. Get lines from 1 to 8 same as Fig. 2, for lar^e size, place 
corner of square at dot H, short aim oti line 6, and draw line 9, 
front waist line, from H to line 1. 

Sec. 2. Place curved end of square at dot G, inside of long arm 
at dot H, short arm to you, and draw curved line from G to H. 

Sec. S. Place curved end of squai e on line just drawn, the end 
5 inches above dot H, and extend line just drawn at inside of square 
as long as desired. 

Sec. -k If there is any taper to the form a small under arm dart 
may be used, running to a point at aimsay, and to a point about 4 
inches below the waist, curving the lines in. 

Sec. 5. Draft sleeve same as for large size, except a little 
straighter, by making dot F 1 inch from dot C, and make dot J ^ 
inch outside line 1, and make less difference between upper and 
under part of sleeve. If you have the dress open in the back allow 
for lap outside line 1, and line 1 of frount should be placed on fold 

^^„Js to trace. 




Seamless From Elbow to Shoulder. 
Section 1. For drafting this sleeve lines 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 are 
made as in Fig. 4, page 10. 

Sec. 2. Dots A. B, C, E, F, J and K are made same as Fig. 4, 
page 10. Place corner of square at dot A, long arm on line 1 and 
draw line 3. Make dot E 1 inch more than half measure around arm. 

Sec. 3. Place corner of square at dot B, short arm on line 1 and 
draw draw line 4 and make dot D, the measure around the arm 
from dot B. 

Sec. 4. Place corner of square at dot C, short arm on line 1 and 
draw line 5 and make dot F, 1^ inches from dot C. 

Sec. 5. Move the corner of square to dot F and make dot H 1 
inch more than half the measure around elbow, and make dot G> 
the elbow measure from cot, F. 



23 

Sec. 6. Make line 1 li inches longer than length of arm and 
make dot I. Place corner of square at dot 1 short arm on line 1 
and draw line 6 at long arm of square. 

Sec. 7. Draw corner of square toward you f inch, keeping long 
arm on line 6 and make dot J 2h inches above corner of square on 
short arm. 

Sec. 8. Place corner of square at dot J, long arm across line 6» 
and make dot K 1 inch more than half cuff measure from dot J 
and draw line 7 from J to K. 

Sec. 9. Place curved en d of sqare at dot F, short arm from you, 
and inside of square at dot B, and draw line 8 from F to B. 

Sec. 10. Place curved end at dot F, short arm from you and 
inside at dot J, and continue line 8 from dot F to dot J. 

Sec. 11. Place curved end of square at dot H, short arm from 
you and inside of long arm at dot K, and draw line 9 from H to K. 

Sec. 12. Extend line 5 1^ inches outside of dot G and make dot 
C, place coroer of square at dot C short arm on line 5 and draw line 

13 at long arm to line 6 and make dot I. 

Sec. 13. Place corner of square at dot I just made, short arm on 
line 13, now draw corner of square | inch outside line 13 ami make 
dot J, 2| inches above corner of square on short arm. 

Sec. 14-. Place corner of square at dot J, long arm across line 6 
and make dot K 1 inch more than half the cuff measure from dot J. 
Without moving square make dot L 1 inch less than half the cuff 
measure from dot J and draw line 12 from dot L to dot J. 

Sec. 15. Place curved end of square at lot H, short arm to you 
and inside of long arm at dot L and draw line 10 from H to L. 

Sec. 16. Place curved end of square at dot G, short arm toward 
you and inside of long arm at dot J, an I draw line 11 from G co J. 
Place curved end of square at dot G, short arm toward you, and in- 
side of long arm at dot D aad continue line 11 from G to D. Lines 

14 and 15 are drawti same as lines 11 and 12 in Fig. 6, or one seam 
sleeve. 

Sec. 17. To cut a bell or tea gown sleeve, you run lines 8 and 
9 Fio. 4, straight down from elbow as long as desired. 



24 

Sec. 18, To cut a bell sleeve with only one seam leave space 
between lines 9 and 10 uncut. See Fig. 7. Fold under par) to its 
place and tiini cuff to suit. 



£eg ©'^atton §Ieeve. 

Section 1. Make the close fitting draft. Place long arm of 
square on line 1, the corner h inch below dot B, short arm to you, 
make a dot 2 inches outside of line 1, at the short arm of square. 

Sec. 2. Place curved end of square at dot F, inside of long arm, 
at dot just made, and draw another line 7, this will be used for the 
inside of upper. 

Sec. 3 Make a dot 3 inches outside of dot E, and run straight 
line from dot H to dot just made, run a line from this dot to the 
dot 2 inches outside of line 1, and from 4 to 5 inches above line 2, 
this would be line 11. 

Fig. 5. 




FRENCH SLEEVE. 

Draw the regular coat sleeve complete, place corner of square at 
dot B, short arm on line 1, and draw a line 12 inches at long arm 



•of square, measure from line 8 toward dot B, 3 inches and make a 
dot, and run a straight line from dot just made to dot G, this line 
to be used for back line of under part of sleeve. 

Measure out fiom line 9 3 inches and make a dot, and run line 
from this dot to dot H, for outside for upper part of sleeve. 

Run curved line from dot E to dot outside of line 9 in same way 
as line 10 is drawn. This may be varied by taking off from under 
part more or less than 3 inches, and adding outside of line 9 as 
much as taken off fi-om undo' part. 



o Spaft or^ ©loth, 



1. To draft on cloth for back draw lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 
and 12, make dot G and H, also dot M, IS and O; tlien trace and cut 
out, allowing seams, except arm, eye and neck. 

2. Place the back on the goods in shape to use line 10 to make 
the side body curve with, pin fast to the cloth. 

3. Then place the corner of square at dot C as before, short arm 
on line 1 and make dot F at waist measure; make dot I ^ inch from 
dot H, press hard with point of pencil to make impression through 
the lining. 

4. Make dot N and P the regular way; place coiner of square at 
dot J and get dot K. 

o. Trace waist line; trace line 9 also from dot K to dot L, trace 
line 10 on the^ tracing of back commencing about 3J inches above 
the waist line, trace from F through P. 

6. With the tracer make a mark at dot N, then take the back 
off" and trace from dot N through dot I to connect with line 10, cut 
out as usual. 

7. In the iront make dot B 2 inches beyond the breast measure- 
line 9 would be 2 inches to the right of dot K. 

8 Make 9. dot in center between dots S and X, and make dot Z 
and Y 2 inches each side of center. 

9. Make a dot in center between dd and cc, and run curve line 
from dot Z and Y to the dot just made, running the lower end o' 
under arm dot to a point below the waist, trace and cut as usual. 




Sleeve With One Seam. 

Section 1. You draw lines 1, 2 and 3, same as Fig. 4.. 
Sec. 2. Mal^e dots A, B and C the same as Fig. -t. 

Sec. 3. Place corner of square at dot A, long arm on line 1, and^ 
draw line 3, at short arm, and make dot E 1 inch more than half 
the measure around the arm. 

Se(.'. 4. Place the corner of square at dot B and short arm on 
line 1 and draw line 4 at long arm, across the paper. 

Sec. 5. Make dot D as far from dot B as the measure ari)und. 
the arm, (12 inches in this n:ieasure.) 



27 

Sec. 6. Place corner of square at C, short arm on Hue 1 and 
draw line 5 at lon^ arm acro?s the paper. 

Sec. 7. Make dot F 1| inches from dot C on line 5, move corner 
square to dot F, 

Sec, 8. Make dot H 1 inch more than half the elbow measure 
from dot F and make dot G, the elbow measure from dot F. or tea 
inches in this measure. 

Sec. 9. Make line 1 2| inches longer than the length of arm and 
make dot I. 

Sec. 10. Place corner of square at dot T, short arm on line 1 
and draw line 6 10 inches at long arm. 

Sec. 11. Draw square toward you 1 inch, long arm on line 6 
and make dot J 2J inches above corner of square on short arm. 

Sec. 12. Place corner of square at dot J, long arm across line (> 
and make dot K, the full cufF measure from dol J. 8 inches in this 
measure. 

Sec. 13. Place curved end of square at dot F, short arm from 
you, and draw line from dot F to dot B. 

Sec. 14. Place curved end of square at dot F and inside of 
square at dot J, short arm from you, and continue line 8 to dot J. 

Sec. 15. Place curved end at dot G, short arm from you, and 
inside at dot K and draw line from G to K, draw straight line from 
dot D to dot G. 

Sec. 16. Draw lines 11 and 12 same as lines 10 and 11 in Fig. 
4. 

Sec. 17. Measure line from F to J and measure the same dis- 
tance from dot K on line 9 and make dot L. 

Sec. 18. Draw line 10 from L to H. The space from L to G 
is taken up in a dart, not gathered. 



28 



^ule^ foF 8a?,ilrpg. 



Place waist lines together and bast up from waist line and down 
from waist, bast from point of darts downward, stretch front shoul- 
der to back, bast close and carefully if you wish the best results. 
Should the front come out longer than side body at arm hole, trim 
off upward about 2h inches. The farther dot H is above line 10 the 
more you will have to trim off. 



lipi»tFCdGtiorj)|) fop ©dtting ppinGei,!,. 

After cutting the lining lay goods on cutting table and lay out as 
long as required, lay the front on the outside and measure down 
from the waist line the length required, and make the front 26 inch 
wide at bottom, and run a line from hip line to the 26 inch dot. 
The back is cut in same way. Carry lines 13 and 14- to the re- 
quired length and make bottom 12 inches wide, bottom of side body 
should be about 17 inches. 



SKIRT CUTTING. 

Take for trial measure 2.5 inch waist, first decide what you wish 
to have in the back, say in this case, we put 5 inches in the back, 
that is after it is pleated or gathered ready for the band, leaves 20 
irches for front and side body, 10 inches folded would be 5 inches, 
to this must be added according to the form from 1 to 2 inches for 
darts, in this case we will add 1^ inches to the 5, will be 6^ inches, 
make dot A at 6^ inches at short arm of square, make dot B ^ inch 
below the corner of square on line 1, place curved end at dot A, in- 
side of long arm at dot B, short arm down, and draw curved line 
from dot A to dot B. 

Make dot C in center between dot A and B and make dot D | 
inch to right, and dot E | inch to the left of C, all on the curved 
line. 

Place corner of square at dot C, short arm on curved line, long 
■arm down, and draw a line 4 inches at long arm of square. 



29 

Draw curved line from dot D and E to lower end of line just 
drawn for the dart, then measure down on the fold the lenofth of 
skirt in front from dot B, and place corner of square at the length, 
short arm on the fold, and make the bottom 11 inches at long arm 
of arm of square, make a dot I inch above dot just made, and draw 
straight line to this dot. 

Make the side body just the same, except at the bottom, make 
the bottom 14 inches wide. The back is straight goods. 

In drafting back, if size of waist is very large, it may be drafted 
at less than the waist measure, for instance, suppose your measure 
is 33, you mnj make dot F at 31, it would make hne 4 ^ inch 
shorter, and make dot O at waist measure (33) it makes the back 
narrower, and add the same to front. 

And again, you can make dot H at any distance you wish from 
dot G, as it does not a'ter the fit of dress, dot L may be made where- 
ever you choose on line 8, as the location of line 10 does not affect 
the fit of waist. And should you wish to Vun seam to center of 
shoulder, make dot L in center of shoulder, and run either a curved 
or straight line to dot L, from dot H. Make dot I and line 11 the 
same. 

Another point we wish to call especial attention to. Should dot J 
for length of side seam be more or less than ^ of arm eye measure, 
from dot D, it should be just \ of arm eye measure from dot D, 
regardless of the measure you have taken, and make the change on 
your measure book if dot J is more than | arm eye measure from 
dot D, the distance from line 2 to line 5 gives too much back arm 
shape, also makes dot G too far from dot B in the front, and the 
dress would be too large under the arm, it would have to be taken 
up on the shoulder and cut out at front neck. 

On the other hand should dot J of back be too near dot D, then 
it would affect the front by making the dress tight on shoulder, and 
under the arm, making it necessary to cut out under the arm. This 
is alwa3'S. Supposing you have taken length of shoulder and length. 
of back correct. 



30 

In round shoulder shapes dot L should be made a little hio^her up- 
on line 8, sa}' j inch, and make a dot I inch below it on line 8, 
draw line 10 to dot L, then draw a line from about 4i inches on 
line 10 to the other dot, and run outside line 8 .inch , draw the 
line from the end of line outside of line 8 to dot K and use this line 
for back arm shape when tracing side body. In front the location 
of dot P may be varied. We think that 1^ inches is about right 
for medium size waist. For very large it may and should be a little 
farther, and if very slender it may be less. Also the space from dot 
Q to dot R may be varied to suit taste. 

Also dot L may be lowered if a very low height of dart measure 
has been taken, as the point of back dart should not be over i inch 
higher than point of front dart. 

You will notice dotted lines at dot X, also at under arm darts at 
waist line, if you use those lines in tracing it will give what is 
called cloak curves, and will add 1 inch to the size of the waist, so 
you must make doc 1 inch less than waist measure. The curve 
can be made with tracer. Be careful not allow too much or the 
waist will be too loose. 

For outside garment raeasuie, use same as for close fitting, for 
light goods. For heavy goods add 1 inch to neck, arm eye, bust 
and waist measure, if for close fitting at the waist, as a rule, only 1 
dart is used. Place dart in center between where dot Q and R 
would be if two darts were used. 

If the space for darts is large, from g to ^ inch may be taken off' 
at dot M, that would leave that amount less for darts for the rest of 
draft. Make it regular. If space is taken off" at dot M run a line 
with curved end of square to connect with curve line of curve front 
then place curved end at the dot at waist line and draw a line to 
connect with line 1 1^ oi two inches below dot M. 

86 sleeve cutting may be varied to suit taste. With narrow or 
wide under part, 1 inch less and 1 inch more is a regular coat sleeve, 
1.^ inch less and more moke a good proportion, however, it may be. 
Two inches less and 2 inches more, which will make 4 inches 
difference between upper and under part. You may make 1^ inches 



31 

less and more at line 3, 1 inch difference at elbow, and make nnder 
and upper the same at the cuff, this would be nice for a jacket. 

Should the style change, requiring a straight sleeve, make dot F 
1 inch from dot C, and make dot J f or i inch outside of line 1 or 
even on line 1. 



FRE^NCH BACK 

is drafted same as Fig. 1, except lines 10, 11, 14 and 15 are left out. 
Dot G is ^ inch from dot C. M is made ^ inch outside of 1, and dot 
P is two inches beyond waist measure. 



Retail •J- ppice ♦$• Iz^ist. 

1 System, with instructions $2fl 00 

1 System, without instructions 10 00 

1 Instruction Book. 2 00 

1 Measure Book 1 00 

Square, Measure Book and Instruction Book constitute a system. 

A DISCOUNT TO DRESSMAKERS AND AGENTS. 



Either lady or gentleman agent wanted in ever}'- city in the 
United States to open cutting schools. A good paying business 
can be worked up, making it the most pleasant and paying business 
for the capital invested. 

For particulars address 

M. O. JONES, 

Rochester, N. Y. 



32 




We wish to call the attention of dressmakers to the O. K. Press 
Board, indispensal)l« to dressmakers. We are also aoj3nts for the 
Hall Bazar Skirt Form, and the Self- Adjusting Flat Holder, some- 
thing that every milliner ought to have in her shop. We also keep 
on hand a full line of Tracers and Tape Lines. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




